Ein Gedi, Israel

Ein Gedi is an underrated site for tourism here in Israel. It’s usually listed on an itinerary as “time permitting” – and usually time does NOT permit when trying to do it on the same day as Masada and the Dead Sea. If it does it’s because you’re getting a very early start and likely hiking up Masada to see the sunrise.

When visiting Ein Gedi on the same day as Masada and the Dead Sea, you do the classic trail to Davids Waterfall and back. That usually takes about an hour to an hour and a half. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a beautiful hike, but Ein Gedi has so much more to offer.

an ibex family eating at the ein gedi nature reserve in Israel
An ibex family in Ein Gedi

Sometimes, if we’re really pressed for time but still want to see SOMETHING, then we’ll go in and do the wheelchair accessible route, which takes us to the lower waterfall, so we at least get a taste of what the place has to offer. This takes about half an hour. Maybe even less. But again, it’s literally just a glimpse of what we would be able to see if we had more time.

What I’d like to see on an itinerary is Ein Gedi – Israeli Style. So what does that mean?

What do Israelis do in Ein Gedi?

First off, Ein Gedi is where you spend your entire day.

You go in your bathing suit, or at least have it on under your clothes. You bring a towel, a change of clothes, and a packed lunch. A plastic bag or two for trash, toilet paper (since there are no restrooms inside the park, only at the entrance/exit, and if we’re there the entire day, we’ll need toilet paper at some point, at least women will), hand sanitizer, wet wipes. A hat, sunscreen, and lots of drinking water.

This means that you can wake up at your leisure, head down to Ein Gedi, and splash around in the small pools, waterfalls, and springs. You can do some hiking, how much is up to you. Today you have to order your entrance in advance to all the national parks though their website, including Ein Gedi.

There are actually multiple hiking routes at Ein Gedi. Most people, both tourists and Israelis, do the Davids Waterfall route, or some section of it. Another amazing route is the Nachal Arugot path, which I will have a separate post about once I go hike it again. I haven’t done it in YEARS, and before I give you advice, I want to go do it again. I just remember it as a really neat hike and have been looking for an excuse to head down to do it again!

Water in the Desert

Ein Gedi is one of the few freshwater oasis here in Israel. And out of the few, it’s the largest, according to the National Parks Authority website.

This area of Israel, although it does not get very much rain – it gets barely any at all – is prone to flooding when it rains in the Judean Hills. For example, if there’s a storm in the Jerusalem area, there are flood warnings in the desert to the east of Jerusalem, which includes the Ein Gedi area.

When it rains in Jerusalem, the water infiltrates into the ground, and into the groundwater aquifer. Now, in this desert region along the Jordan Valley, the bedrock is exposed. This means that the water pours out of the rock in certain areas creating freshwater springs. And that’s exactly what’s happening here at Ein Gedi.

This is the reason that there are all these waterfalls and small pools to enjoy here at Ein Gedi.

waterfall at the ein gedi nature reserve in israel
One of the waterfalls at the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve, Israel

How Far Before I Reach Water?

Not far at all, actually! But the earlier you arrive, or the further you go, the more likely you are to have the area to yourself. At least, for a little while.

Especially if you’re coming in the summer, I suggest coming early. It gives you time to do the hiking before it gets super hot out. And then when it is super hot, you’re enjoying the pools of cool water.

The closest waterfall to the entrance is the lower waterfall, which is about a 10 minute walk from the entrance of the park. If you have small children, this is a fantastic option. It does get crowded though as it gets later in the day.

The farthest pool and waterfall is about an hours hike from the entrance, but it will be the least populated. And this is if you’re doing the classic David’s Fall hike.

two waterfalls at the ein gedi nature reserve in israel
Two waterfalls in Ein Gedi

There are pools even further than an hour, but they’re absolutely amazing! Well worth the hike. They’re up next to the Dudim Cave above Davids Waterfall.

Hiking in Ein Gedi, Israel

As amazing as the pools and waterfalls are at Ein Gedi, if you like hiking, this is a fantastic site as well.

Even if you don’t go into the water, the hike to Davids Waterfall is beautiful, and definitely worth doing. As I said, it’s about an hour to an hour and a half of a hike, depending on how many stops you make along the way.

If you want a more serious hike, there’s a 3-4 hour hike that you can do, which takes you not only to the different waterfalls, but also to some neat archeological sites as well.

You’ll make it to the Chalcolithic Temple which is about 5000 years old. Archeologists believe that water-related ceremonies took place there.

There’s a flour mill from the time of the Mamluks, which takes us back to the 1400’s.

And then there’s an observation point to Tel Goren, or if you’d like an even longer hike, you can hike over to the tel itself. Tel Goren takes us back almost 3000 years. Archeologists believe that this is where biblical Ein Gedi is located. From the viewpoint you’ll be able to see the agricultural terraces from that time period.

The Ancient Synagogue

If you’ve made it to the end of the trail and still have time to spare, you should check out the ancient synagogue. Your entrance to the synagogue is included when you get your ticket, so make sure you keep the receipt to show at the entrance to the synagogue!

The synagogue that’s been excavated is from the Byzantine time period (324-638 CE). One of the things that make it fascinating is the inscription in the mosaic regarding the rules of the community. Specifically, the rule to not give away the secrets of the community. Archeologists believe that this refers to the secrets of the Persimmon Perfume and oils that the community was famous for.

Other Hiking Routes

Israel is known for its amazing hiking trails, and Ein Gedi definitely meets this standard. There are at least 4 more hiking routes, full day hikes, for those interested.

I suggest downloading the brochure and using that as your starting point to gather information and learn about the rest of the hikes you can do at Ein Gedi.

How to Get to Ein Gedi

Technically, you could take a bus to Ein Gedi. They do exist. But they are few and far between. Please plan accordingly if you’re set on using public transportation. Check out my post about using public transportation here in Israel.

My recommendation – rent a car. It will make your trip to and from Ein Ged so much more enjoyable. And check out my post about driving in Israel.

When in Israel, Ein Gedi is usually a day trip from Jerusalem. It’s about an hour drive.

It can also be a day trip from Tel Aviv, but the drive is much longer both to and from, so you’re really better off going from Jerusalem.

That being said, there are closer options. The first is a field school and youth hostel adjacent to the site, or if you’re looking for something fancier, there are all the hotels on the shore of the Dead Sea, which are about a 30 minute drive away.

Summary

Even though Israel is a small country, it has a lot to offer. Ein Gedi is one of those gems hidden in plain site, that for some reason gets overlooked when people visit Israel.

It’s a fantastic site, and has something for everyone.

If you have young children or people who can’t walk too far, the lower waterfall is great. It offers being in nature, wheelchair accessibility, and is close to the entrance.

*Please note that the waterfall itself is NOT accessible via wheelchair. You do need to head “offroad” for about a minutes walk in order to get to the waterfall itself. In a wheelchair you can access the viewpoint of the waterfall.*

And if you like hiking, you’ll find a hike that’s a good fit for you.

Especially if you’re looking for a local experience, take a day off the running from site to site, and spend a day enjoying Ein Gedi like an Israeli would.

an ibex at the ein gedi nature reserve in israel
An ibex in Ein Gedi

Have you been to Ein Gedi?

What was your experience like?

Let me know in the comments!

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